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"Shaping to fit"

A strange-sounding term, perhaps, but one which, to the cobbler, adequately describes the difficult process of shaping and fixing in place the uppers of the shoe to the last.

Heavy, computer-controlled machinery is employed to draw the uppers over the last until a tight fit is achieved (picture 2).

The pincers of the machine pull the lower edge of the uppers in a downwards direction; this is then fixed ("welted") to the insole (the lighter area visible in picture 3) mounted on the last using either adhesive or small nails. It is to this insole – which is either soft and pliant or as hard as steel, depending on the desired flexibility of the footwear - that the main sole unit will later be attached.



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