Likhu Chuli I, first ascent by Ines Papert in Nepal on 13 November

2013 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Likhu Chuli I (6719m) in Nepal, also referred to as Pig Pherago Shar. Her climbing partner Thomas Senf abandoned his attempt circa 140m below the summit due to frostbite.

In late October German alpinist Ines Papert, Swiss alpinist and photographer Thomas Senf and German cameraman Hans Hornberger travelled to Nepal's Khumbu Valley hoping to establish a new route up the North Face of Tengkangpoche (6487m), the difficult wall first climbed in spring 2008 by the Swiss duo Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten. However, due to a general lack of ice the chosen line of ascent wasn't in condition and all other possible routes seemed too dangerous due to the looming seracs above.

After a fast acclimatisation trip to Pharchamo Peak (6178m) and a paraglide flight from a slightly lower altitude, Papert and Senf decided to attempt the north face of Likhu Chuli I. According to Mingma Sherpa, owner of the Pharchamo View Lodge located at the foot of Tengkangpoche, Likhu Chuli I had never been climbed before.

Text: Johanna Stöckl